Stoked to have my story ‘A Convenient Swell’ feature in issue 192 of Carve Magazine.
‘Twenty seconds is a long time. Enough time to kid yourself are going to make it. You begin scratching deep towards the horizon line. No rushing; confident progress. Somewhere around the fourth, maybe fifth stroke you realise. Not only is this wave considerably bigger than anything you have seen in Cornwall before, but also you aren’t going to make it.
Your initial effort has actually placed you in a far worse predicament than if you had just waited. You curse yourself. Why? You proceed through a brief acceptance phase. You take it. For five long minutes you take it all the way back to the sand. Pintail in hand you walk past the bemused faces of tourists bodyboarding on the inside, past the dog walkers enjoying a sunny Sunday at the beach and finally underneath the deck of the luxury hotel overlooking the beach, where a group have decided to greet this swell with a G&T in hand rather than a lonely paddle out.
A couple lean over the fence and yell at you simultaneously “Big waves!”. I muster a nod and a smile before continuing my walk back to the car park.