Excerpt from ‘Herois do Faja’ featured in Wavelength Summer issue 255:
‘Despite the numerous challenges posed by the surf and inexcusable damage to many surf spots, why do surfers still come here? Because there are still challenges to be sought. Rarer moments than in previous times: less surf spots, more danger and smaller tidal windows. But moments can still be sought.
Encapsulated in the process of entering and exciting the water is the same humbling experience that drew people to surf off these fajãs in the first place. Abundant lessons to be learned and earned in the surf. Excellent surfers and good surfers mingle. The taste of a cold cerveja and fresh bread after the hiding of your life. Huge waves that roar out of the sea and flippantly throw rainbows into the sky.’