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'Seat of Storms' Carve Magazine 183

‘Framed between pink sea thrift. A stiff easterly wind blowing your hair over your face as you look out over a well-travelled swell. A gaggle of friends sat on the sunny grass above the break, calling the chronic-iic rip bank the moment it shifts up a gear. Wrestling into your soaked 3/2 whilst trying to shove chocolate digestives into your mouth. A glorious struggle between time and tide.’
Stoked to have my tale about West Cornwall ‘The Seat of Storms’ feature in issue 183 of Carve Magazine. Especially to see my words alongside the stellar photography of @almackinnon @warbey @tobybutlerphoto- all of whom have captured more than I could ever hope.

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'The Headland' - Carve Magazine, Issue 176

Chuffed to get a run in the latest issue of Carve - A first hand account of surfing at the elusive 'Cribbar' a rare big wave that breaks off the headland at Newquay. It is my first piece of writing for a UK surf magazine, so for it to make a cover feature as well makes its all the more sweeter. 

Carve Issue 176
The Headland 1
Headland 2
Headland 3



Carve Magazine December 2016


I grew up near Callington in South East Cornwall. Like a lot of Cornish towns, Callington used to be a mining town - Nowadays it is notable for being home to the beige culinary delight that is the Ginsters Pasty and for also being about as far from the coast as is possible in this peninsula of a county.

My mates at school used to dream about being old enough to run amok through Union Street at night, chasing the saccharine buzz of Barcadi Breezers and pursuing the elusive Plymouthian maid. I also used to dream about becoming a surfer.

Intently poring over and escaping into the articles in surf magazines; listening deep as my Dad regaled stories of him and his friends surfing hollow waves like Porthleven in the West of the county and big waves like Milook in the North. We would load up the car with surf gear every weekend and when the spring started to win-the-war over the winter we would go after school too (my dad being a teacher at the time). You could find me scrapping around every lineup from Tregantle to Sennen - styling in my ill-fitting, blue and beige Gul winter suit.

It is why that when I look at this shot of myself surfing at Porthleven, back in November (shot by @amysmithphotography) featured in the latest issue of Carve Magazine I am proud to see a surfer stare back at me. The same kind of surfer that I used to read about and heard my Dad talk about.

I say this not in a ego-driven, self-congratulatory way but in rather more humble manner - the accomplished satisfaction of perseverance . It doesn’t matter where you grow up or how much natural talent you possess, it is always worth working hard for the things you are passionate about. But hey, what do I know - I’m only a surfer after all.



Facing Angus

Porthleven is the only southwest facing fishing harbour in Cornwall, as a result it receives the occasional drubbing from the prevailing Atlantic. Last weekend, the first named storm of the winter season 'Angus' ripped up the English Channel and consequently announced its presence at the baulkheads of Porthleven Harbour. Why the personification of storms through the allocation of a name is now deemed neccessary, I'm not so sure. However I do know that when you sit out there on a piece of foam, see a growing slate-grey wall swing south into the harbour reef and put your head down - a certain magic can happen. Call it Angus or just plain good fortune.